Fork in the Road: Restaurant Truck
Border Order: New Mexican Cuisine
Jane Stern has been traveling the country finding affordable, out-of-the way eateries for more than three decades. Her book Road Food has been a best-seller since it appeared in 1974. Now Stern has turned her skills to finding such places in our area. In this issue, she finds Mexican food—in all its many iterations.
Truck is a very popular New Mexican restaurant on Route 22 in Bedford. It is lively and noisy and an easy pick for adults, kids, date-nighters, and singles who just want a good Margarita at the bustling bar.
As is the trend with casual restaurants in upscale towns, Truck is a farm-to-table (or maybe ranch-to-table) place with the requisite number of locally sourced products. Fish is sustainably caught, beef is grass-fed, chicken is organic, pork is from Niman Ranch, and the tortillas are both organic and whole wheat. Vegetables are given due consideration, and the menu boasts a “bean of the week.” Most everything served here has a provenance.
With all this scrupulous attention you can be assured that the food is both fresh and clean. If you were planning to dine with Michael Pollan this would be a good place to go. Nothing we ate here, or spied on other diners’ plates (easy to do as the tables are very close together), looked gloppy or greasy. It might be the least funky New Mexican food around, but if you favor lightness and purity this is it.
The portions are surprisingly generous. I ordered a triumvirate of tacos (beef, chicken, and pork), and they were mucho if not particularly macho. Again, unless you specify that you want things hot and beg for some atomic habaneros the food at Truck will not fry your face off.
One very well-balanced dish is the Carne Adovada (pork with chiles and pico de gallo sauce) and a refreshing Farm Salad with local feta, roasted beets, radishes, and cucumbers in a tangy balsamic sauce.
Homemade desserts are silly and kid friendly. They are not made with a light touch like the rest of the menu items.
391 Old Post Rd.